Hermès Hardware: Palladium vs Gold (Weight, Finish, Care)

On Birkin and Kelly, Hermès most often uses palladium-plated or gold-plated hardware. Palladium reads cool and modern; gold looks warm and classic. Beyond these, rare or special pieces appear in brushed variants and limited finishes like permabrass, rose gold, guilloché, ruthenium, or black PVD (“So Black”). Regardless of metal, all shiny hardware will pick up hairline marks with wear; brushed looks subtler but still marks. For scratches or loose parts, skip DIY polishes and use Hermès after-sales via boutiques. Choose hardware by the leather color you love, how you’ll wear the bag, and your long-term care plan. 

What Hermès actually uses (and what that means)

Hermès describes many pieces with the brand’s own phrasing “Metallic finish: palladium plated”—a helpful signal that hardware on icons is plated, not solid palladium. Gold hardware is likewise gold-plated (often 18–23.5k depending on reference and era). Christie's adds technical detail: most fittings begin as brass, then receive layered plating (e.g., silver under-layer + palladium top; or a gold layer for GHW). That explains why heavy abrasives can haze the surface: you’re interacting with a finish, not a solid block of precious metal. 

Beyond the two classics, reputable sources and auction houses document additional finishes that circulate in specific series: brushed palladium, brushed gold, permabrass, rose gold, guilloché (textured), ruthenium, and the celebrated So Black pieces with a black PVD coating. These are rarer and tend to follow collection cycles or special orders.

Read more: Why Are Hermès Bags So Expensive? 11 Real Reasons (Craft, Scarcity, Resale)

How PHW vs GHW actually looks (and why that matters)

• Palladium hardware (PHW): a cool, “white-metal” sheen that adds crisp contrast—especially on black, grey, navy, or cooler blues. Sotheby’s explicitly frames PHW as a sharp/modern pairing. 

• Gold hardware (GHW): a warm, classic glow that deepens neutrals and flatters earth tones (Gold leather, Etoupe, browns) and reds. The same Sotheby’s guidance notes that hardware preference cycles; it’s largely an aesthetic call.
  
  

Takeaway: Pick the palette you’ll carry. Collector fads move, but your day-to-day outfits do the heavy lifting.

Scratch visibility, fingerprints & finish types

All shiny hardware—palladium or gold—shows hairline micro-scratches and fingerprints with normal use. Brushed finishes scatter reflections and look subtler, but they still mark (often in a flatter, less mirror-like way). If you love a “mirror” look, accept patina; if you prefer lower-gloss, brushed PHW/GHW can read calmer in bright light. Either way, resist the urge to “polish it back to new” with household metal compounds: you risk clouding or thinning the plating. Use a clean microfiber for prints and consult the brand for anything deeper. 

Care & repair: what Hermès recommends (and what not to do)

Hermès runs official maintenance & repair (“after-sales”) via its boutiques. That’s the on-record path for evaluating scratches, loose rivets/feet, stuck screws, and other issues. Booking through after-sales protects your finish and preserves the bag’s value story. Save DIY for the absolute basics: gentle microfiber wiping and careful handling in transit. 

Pro tip: If your hardware presents deeper scuffs, cloudy areas from previous polishing, or alignment issues, document with good macro photos and seek a professional assessment first. (Bottom of this article we list how to contact us for a quick consult.)

Read more: How to Authenticate a Hermès Bag

Color pairing logic (simple, practical rules)

• Neutrals that flex: Black and Etoupe are “both-ways” colors—PHW looks sleek; GHW looks luxe.

• Warm leathers: Gold, biscuit, tan, Rouge H, and creams often sing with GHW.

• Cool leathers: Greys (Gris Mouette, Gris Asphalt), blues (Bleu Nuit, Navy), and some greens often pop with PHW.

• Brights & rare tones: Try the bag with the clothes you actually wear most. With “statement” colors, either hardware can be right—choose the one that keeps the outfit balanced rather than loud.

Sotheby’s summarizes it well: hardware is primarily aesthetic, and collector preferences shift over time—so buy what makes you reach for the bag more often.

Hermès Hardware: Palladium vs Gold — 2025 Guide (Comparison Table)

Limited/rare finishes you’ll hear about

• Brushed PHW/GHW: Lower gloss; still marks; can read more understated on structured Sellier builds.

• Permabrass: A warm, muted gold-like tone seen on some editions.

• Rose gold: Softer warmth than yellow gold.

• Guilloché: Engine-turned texture on plates for a patterned reflection.

• Ruthenium: Darker “gunmetal” mood on select items/eras.

• So Black (PVD): Black-coated hardware on special collections—very distinctive and collectible; treat any re-finishing attempts with great caution. 

Read more: Buying a Hermès Bag in 2025: The Smartest Places (Why Philip Karto)

Resale notes (set expectations, not promises)

Hardware choice can influence perceived mood and buyer pool, but data from auction specialists stresses personal taste and cycles. That’s why the safest strategy is to buy the leather + hardware combination you’ll carry the most now. Your real “return” is years of wear plus strong baseline retention on classic specs—regardless of PHW or GHW. 

Where we fit in: choosing PHW vs GHW the easy way (Philip Karto)

We love Hermès craft as much as you do. Our atelier works from authentic Hermès foundations in two circular ways:

• Hermès Recycled (restored/refreshed): We re-engineer edges/glazing and leatherwork to bring a piece back to crisp, wearable condition—in our own Private LAB.

• Hermès Upcycled (one-of-one): We artistically reimagine real foundations into unique pieces that keep heritage materials in circulation.

On our site, the Hermès collection and flagship Hermes recycled product pages clearly list size, color, and hardware—so you can filter by PHW vs GHW at a glance. Many pieces are ready now, which means you can align the hardware with your wardrobe immediately (no boutique wait).

Internal links to add in Shopify:

• Link Hermès collection (category) from the first mention.

• Link Authenticate a Hermès Bag when you first discuss engravings/stamps in this post or a sidebar. 

• Link Private LAB when you mention our in-house re-engineering and aftercare. 

• Link a relevant Hermes recycled PDP where readers can compare PHW/GHW options. 

Read more:  How to Spot a Fake Hermès Bag: Stamps, Hardware & Red Flags

Cleaning myths we hear every week (and what to do instead)

• “I can buff scratches with silver polish.” Bad idea. Polishes can cloud or thin plating.

• “Brushed hardware won’t show wear.” It does show marks—just differently than mirror finishes.

• “My local shop can tighten everything.” Maybe; but Hermès after-sales is the safest path for structural or finish issues. Start there, then ask us if you need a second opinion for restoration or upcycling. 

A simple decision flow 

1. Pick the leather color first. Black or cool tones? You may prefer PHW. Warm neutrals or red family? Try GHW.

2. Check your jewelry & shoes. If you already wear silver-tone watches or white-gold jewelry, PHW harmonizes; if you wear yellow-gold, GHW is easy.

3. Think about use. If you want subtle wear visibility, consider brushed. If you love a mirror gloss (patina and all), go shiny.

4. Plan for care. Microfiber at home; Hermès after-sales for anything deeper. If you own a vintage piece, we can evaluate refresh vs upcycle in our Private LAB. 

Read more: Are Hermès Bags a Good Investment in 2025? Data & Smart Buys

“We recycle and upcycle authentic Hermès foundations in our in-house Private LAB—refreshing edges, glazing, and leatherwork or creating one-of-one designs. Our product pages list size, color, and hardware so you can choose PHW vs GHW quickly, and many are ready to ship.”

FAQ

What hardware does Hermès use on Birkin/Kelly?

• Primarily palladium-plated and gold-plated fittings; special runs include brushed metals, permabrass, rose gold, guilloché, ruthenium, and black PVD (“So Black”). 

Is palladium more durable than gold?

• Both are plated finishes and will show wear. What you see is driven more by finish (shiny vs brushed) and how you handle the bag than by the base metal. 

Which hardware resells better?

• It rotates with taste cycles. Auction specialists emphasize that PHW vs GHW is mostly aesthetic—choose what you’ll carry the most. 

How should I clean Hermès hardware?

• Use a soft microfiber to remove prints. Avoid household metal polishes. For scratches/fit issues, go through Hermès after-sales at a boutique. 

Can you help me pick PHW or GHW now?

• Yes—browse our Hermès collection and Hermes recycled product where size/color/hardware are listed clearly; many pieces are ready now. Or message us for a quick photo consult.